This is some of the Test Equipment I use every day

 I first wrote this in 2001 and since then things have changed quite dramatically. I added the spectrum analyser in 2014. I still use the AVO valve tester, but I prefer to use a Black Star audio signal generator, my Wavetek RF digital signal generator and a new digital oscilloscope. The line output tester is completely obsolete as are the TV sets it used to help repair, but I still wheel out the variacs from time to time. I'm adding various other things that have been languishing on shelves, mainly unused as I add them to my inventory.

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Rigol DSA815-TG

 

GW Instek GDS1102U

 

AVO Valve Tester 

Marconi TF2008

 

Marconi TF1370 

Tektronix TYPE 454

 

STVDST-01

 

VARIAC

 

VARIAC

 

Solartron SRS15.2 

Philips PM6611

 Racal 9915

 Fluke 1953A

 Racal 1991

 Farnell FG3

 Wavetech 2407

 Hewlett Packard 431C

 Hewlett Packard 3200B

 Power Unit 234A

Datalab Transient Meter 

Black Star LDO100

 

Peak Testers 

GW Instek GDM8145 

 

 

 Testing this sort of circuit board involves lots of test equipment, some of which comes in very useful for fixing old radios.

Click to see a selection.

 

Rigol DSA-815-TG

 My new spectrum analyser which covers up to 1.5GHz (click picture to see more)

Note the invisible leads...

 

GDS1102U Oscilloscope

Note again the invisible leads... Click picture to read its spec.

 AVO Valve Tester

 Here's my old AVO valve tester which is virtually indispensable unless one has loads of valves and plenty of time to swap them around. It was used by Electronics Lincs in North Thoresby to test TV valves and it's still got its original handbook.

The handbook is vital as it provides the settings for the tester. The array of switches and knobs needs to be carefully adjusted for each valve being tested. Under the lid is a set of valve bases and the pins on these are connected to roller switches which are turned to a number 0-9. These switches set the valve electrodes correctly, after which the various voltages are set up, the heater or filament, anode, screen etc. Depending on the type of valve other switches and knobs are adjusted so that emission and gain can be checked.

Weirdly, the equipment uses AC not DC to power the valve being tested.

RF Signal Generator TF2008

See repair tips and Instruction Manual

 This is a Marconi TF2008, one of the last analogue professional products of this type from that company. It uses transistors (not valves) of course and can do most things. One really needs a counter to check exact frequency output but it has a built-in device to carry out spot checks if one isn't available. The first counter I had was cheap and cheerful and had one significant drawback..it leaked RF so that the superb attenuator ccould't be increased beyond background level of the leak. To get down to microvolts required the counter to be unplugged.

The generator has one really unusual feature. The pointer traverses to the right going from zero frequency to the top of the first band then, when the next band is selected, it tunes "backwards" from right to left, next tunes "forwards" from left to right and so on in 12 bands to over 500MHz. This gives you essentially a continuous tuning scale of about 12 feet in length.

I bought it in a "non-working but easily repairable" condition years ago for a lot of money. I think mine had been connected to a transceiver which had inadvertently been put into transmit mode, damaging the output of the generator. I find it nicer to use than a digital equipment but a bit fiddly when setting to exact frequencies. This is probably because I use a digital counter with too many digits.

Audio Signal Generator TF1370

 This was my first audio signal generator, a Marconi TF1370 which is authentic enough to use valves but suffers from the drawback of having to warm up.

Tektronix Oscilloscope Type 454

 I can't abide an oscilloscope which takes hours to warm up and stabilize so I ditched the various valved models I had and invested in this Tektronix for which my bid of £50 was accepted, being surplus to Plessey's requirements. It's transistors warm up immediately and one can make measurements within half a minute of switching on.

I no longer use this because I bought a brand new scope (GDS-1102U) when the supplier listed them at reduced price for a short period in September 2013. I paid £276.94 inc VAT and delivery.

Pricing of products such as this is sometimes very odd. For example, in Dec 2014, Farnell lists the GDS1102U for £568 whilst sister company CPC has them at £383. Maplin has them at £419.99, whilst Amazon lists four at £908.50, £509.99, £761.10 and £481.60. Ebay has them at £438.70, £678.29, £436.38 and £627.41. A US company has them at $488 which is £312 and in South Africa they are £418.

What on earth is going on. Can anyone offer an explanation?

The new model has some really useful features which were undreamed of when Tektronix made the model 454. I can press a button and immediately see a locked stable picture of the input just the right size for the screen and another press I can see the RMS value of a sinusoidal input.

 

Line Output Transformer Tester

 

You can judge when I started this website! 

This is my Line Output Transformer Tester.

The key part of all TV sets is the transformer which develops the high voltage to drive the cathode ray tube. The LOPT, as it is known, is also pressed into service to provide subsidiary voltages for many other parts of a TV's circuitry. Energy that would ordinarily just go to waste as heat is harnessed to provide things like power for the CRT's heater, voltages to drive the focus and screen grisd electrodes, and several low voltage power sources. The LOPT is very highly stressed and a typical fault is a breakdown within the transformer's windings. This is usually not an easy fault to diagnose, at least it's one that could be mistaken for an entirely different fault. The simple way to find out if a LOPT is faulty is to swap it for a new one. Unfortunately as there are hundreds of different types it would be an expensive proposition to carry stocks of all of them. One of the largest manufacturers of transformers came up with this little tester which can accurately diagnose most LOPT faults by emulating the circuitry connected to it in a way that can determine short circuits between windings, shorted turns in windings and faulty rectifier diodes in the EHT circuit. Since I started using it I must have saved many hundreds of pounds in transformers I never needed to use.

It's now many years since I used this.

 

Variac

 This is a government surplus variac which is essentially an auto transformer which one connects across the mains supply to provide an adjustable source of power for testing faulty TV sets and the like.

I've had this one in the workshop for ages on loan but recently swapped it with its owner for a TV repair.

By monitoring input current, usually across an open fuse holder one can gently increase the mains voltage and check nothing nasty is afoot.

Be warned though with TV sets the degaussing posistor presents a low impedance across the imains input until after a second it gets hot and effectively disappears. As the control is turned up it is customary to pause while the posistor gets to operating temperature bedfore looking for meaningful input current.

This particulatr variac has plenty of power handling capacity unlike my previous model which I bought from Maplins which blew up after only a couple of uses.

I've now fitted this device into a case.

 

Another Variac

 This is another variac. It was being chucked out because the owner didn't know what it was. Inside the home made wooden case, disguised as metal, is a variac with a horizontal frame rather than the vertical type above.

This model is wired in a different way to the one above. It can be adjusted to provide an exact output voltage over a limited range.

 

Solartron Power Supply type SRS153.2

 Clearly designed for testing valve equipment because you can see the output for standard valve heaters (6.3v). The PSU provides outputs not unlike the Type 234A used for powering the R1132 and R1392 receivers. I recall looking inside after I bought it and found a series pass circuit using power valves to provide a variable output voltage.

It uses five valves, a pair of 5B/254M (CV428) beam tetrodes for output voltage control and three diode rectifiers, type EY84. As I recently (2019) needed to repair this equipment I checked the circuit details. The two 5B254M valves are connected in a series pass circuit with their anodes supplied by two HT rectifiers in a full-wave swinging choke arrangement with the HT transformer centre tapped to ground. The third diode rectifier cathode is fed from the same HT transformer winding to produce a high voltage negative supply. This is filtered through a pair of capacitors and a 470Kohm resistor to supply a bias voltage to the grids of the 5B254Ms. The HT output voltage is determined by the setting of the slider of a potentiometer wired across the HT and the bias voltage. All nice and simple and extremely rugged and straightforward when compared with its modern solid-state equivalent.

When mine failed, due to connection across something modern that happened to fail short-circuit, the excess current through the 5B254Ms resulted in failure of screen grid resistors. One burnt up and the other went high in value. These appeared to have once been 47ohm resistors. I fitted two new resistors plus two new anode "stopper" resistors which had risen in value from their marked 100 ohms. The 1Kohm grid resistors were both a bit high at 1.5Kohm but as they're not critical I left them. There are a couple of cathode resistors which are high stability 10ohm ceramic bodied components in perfect condition. The failed anode and screen resistors were very low wattage and perhaps chosen as such to act as fuses in the event of an overload?

See a new power supply I'm building

Here's some pictures of the inside of the Solartron SRS153.2

 

 

 

 

 
 This is the best example of the circuit diagram I could find, but as the circuitry is so simple you can easily follow it.

 

 It's often useful to have two independent HT power supplies and I was pleased to receive this second Solartron (above) from Steve Kaplan. This model looks slightly newer than my first example, having a different meter. He also presented me with this oscilloscope.

 

 Philips Frequency Counter type PM6611

See the Advertising data...

 The Philips PM6611 has a single input connector which accepts up to 80MHz with a sensitivity of a nominal 10mV dropping off at higher frequencies. Input impedance is 1Mohm and some switchable signal processing which helps it accept either sine or square wave inputs and improved performance below 100KHz. In practice this example handles inputs at over 100MHz.

 Racal Frequency Counter type 1991

See the operators manual

 The Racal 1991 has two input sockets, 0-100MHz (Input A) and 0-160MHz (Input B) with sensitivities of 25mV rising to 50mV towards the upper frequencies. Input impedance is selectable at 1Mohm or 50 ohms.

 

 Fluke Counter type 1953A

See the user manual

 This model of the Fluke 1953A has three input sockets designed to accept 0-25MHz (Channel A), 0-125MHz (Channel B) and 0-512MHz (Channel C which includes a prescaler). Generally the sensitivity is 30mV, falling off towards the maximum frequency ranges. The input impedances are aound 1Mohm rather than typical 50 ohms.

 

 Datalab Transient Recorder type DL901

I have no information on this equipment which I bought in a job lot around 2002.

 Farnell Audio Signal Generator type FG3

See the user manual

 The FG3 is a very handy instrument providing extremely low frequency signals up to a couple of hundred KHz. It'll need an external attenuator if the variable control is found to be too inaccurate. It also has a swept output. 

Black Star LDO100

See the circuit diagram & its Technical Manual

 

 I now prefer to use this Black Star audio generator as its display gives the frquency and amplitude of the output. For years I put up with a major failing though. The on-off switch is a rocker switch on the rear panel and as the instrument is fitted into a space in a rack it was always awkward to turn it on and off so yeterday (12th August 2021), I dismantled the thing and drilled the aluminium front panel for a switch and a red LED. The latter is fed from the on-board 9 volt supply via a 680 ohm resistor. As you might be able to see the BNC socket is fitted with a phono adaptor.

 Racal Frequency Counter type 9915

See the technical manual

 The Racal 9915 has a better sensitivity (down to 10mV) than the earlier 1991model above and has two input sockets tailored for up to 60MHz (Input B) and 40MHz to 520MHz (Input A). Note that Input A is rated at 50 ohms whilst Input B is 1Mohm.

 

 Wavetech Signal Generator type 2407

click the picture to see more

 Hewlett Packard Power Meter type 431C

click the picture to see more

 Hewlett Packard VHF Oscillator type 3200B

See the Operators Manual for the HP3200B Oscillator

Like some of my receivers, the R206 and DST100 plus the W2508 Wavemeter, this VHF Oscillator has a turret tuner carrying coils for its different wavebands. The Oscillator has a pair of 6DZ4 valves operating as a multi-vibrator. A design weakness is the rather flimsy knob which not only operates the turret, but also flips the tuning scale to match the selected coil.

 Power Unit Type 234A

See the circuit diagram

 This is the AC power supply for the R1392 and R1132 receivers although it's fine for powering lots of wartime stuff.

Mine is missing its plug-in moving iron meter, but works OK without it. Under the light grey fuse panel lid there's a setting for changing the HT output between high and low.

 

A miscellany of small testers I use all the time

 
 

 Integrated circuits rarely fail when left alone, but lightning, power supply problems and of course electronic enginers or technicians can be a big influence on them.

This simple tester can evaluate the type of integrated circuit and check it functions correctly.

Peak Testers  

 

 One of the most useful testers ever invented, this device tells me if a capacitor has reached end of life. Much like radio valves electrolytic capacitors have a finite lifetime. This can be dramatically reduced if subjected to a high ambient temperature or if they're subjected to AC.

 

 

 I mislaid my ESR70 recently and because I deal with urgent repairs I had to buy a new one. Pretty expensive, but to my surprise the new example was really good because it overcomes a few problems met when using the old one. For example you turn it on, connect the probes and it automatically detects the capacitor and displays the capacitance plus the ESR. The latter resistance value is now up to 40 ohms so provides a much greater range of measurements.

The power is now provided by a AAA cell instead of the special 12 volt battery which is really useful.

My XYL's help is no longer required to press buttons.

A few days later I found the old one...

 

 I use this tester mainly for checking inductors.

 
 

 This tester tells me if a triac or thyristor is serviceable.

 
   Despite its vague name, this tester is for transistors including FETs, Darlingtons and insuated gate types.

 
   Not so much used, this tells me the characteristics of zener diodes.

 

 This tester has been superseded by the component tester above but was very useful when I first acquired it.

 

Mega328 LCR-T4

Here's a recent purchase. The tester comes as shown opposite but to protect it and to improve battery life I use a set of 6 AAA cells instead of a PP3 and fitted it into a cheap plastic box.

You can use two or three test leads to test virtually anything. I've included the (un-edited) spec below. Clearly it would get confused with very small coils and very small capacitors so for those I use one of my other testers, but the ESR feature works surprisingly well and gives more information than the Peak ESR tester (above).

I later added a small on/off switch to prevent the battery discharging when not in use, and a bezel to improve its looks.

 
 

 

 

 
 Description:
1,2013 latest M328 version of the software ,more functions.Chip: Atmega328
2.128*64 big Backlight LCD display,only 2mA when stand by.
3,Using 9V battery (Not included)

Test ranges:
Inductors, capacitors , diodes, dual diode , mos, transistor, SCR , the regulator, LED tube , ESR,
Resistance,Adjustable potentiometer
Resistance :0.1 ohm resolution, maximum 50M ohm
Capacitor :25pf -100,000 uf
Inductors : 0.01mh-20H

Function:
1:Automatic detection of NPN and PNP transistors, n-channel and p-channel MOSFET,
diode (including double diode), thyristor, transistor, resistor and capacitor and other components
2: Automatic test the pin of a component, and display on the LCD
3:Can detect the transistor, MOSFET protection diode amplification coefficient
and the base to determine the emitter transistor forward biased voltage
4: Measure the gate and gate capacitance of the MOSFET threshold voltage
5:Use 12864 liquid crystal display with green backlight
Specifications: For you reference:
1,One -button operation, automatic shutdown .
2,Only 20nA shutdown current.
3,Automatically detect NPN, PNP bipolar transistors , N -channel and P -channel MOS FET,
JFET , diodes , two diodes, thyristors small power unidirectional and bidirectional thyristor.
4,Automatic identification components pin arrangement .
5,Measuring bipolar transistor current amplification factor and base - emitter threshold voltage.
6,Via the base - emitter threshold voltage and high current amplification factor to identify Darlington transistors.
7,Can detect bipolar transistors and MOS transistors protection diodes.
8,Measuring the gate MOS FET threshold voltage and the gate capacitance.
9,Can simultaneously measure two resistors and resistor symbol is displayed.
Displayed on the right with a decimal value of 4 .
Resistance symbol on both sides shows the pin number.
So you can measure the potentiometer.
If the potentiometer wiper is not transferred to an extreme position ,
we can distinguish the middle and both ends of the pin.
10,Resistance measurement resolution is 0.1 ohms , 50M ohms can be measured .
11,Can measure capacitanceCan measure capacitance of 30pF-100mF , resolution 1pF.
12.2uF more capacitors can simultaneously measure the equivalent series resistance ESR values.
The two can be displayed with a decimal value , resolution 0.01 ohms.
13,Can be in the correct order and the diode symbol display two diodes , and gives the diode forward voltage.
14.LED is detected as a diode forward voltage higher . Combo of the LED is identified as two diodes.
15,Eeverse breakdown voltage is less than 4.5V Zener diode can be identified.
16,Can measure a single diode reverse capacitance.
If the bipolar transistor connected to the base and collector or emitter of a pin ,
it can measure the collector or emitter junction reverse capacitance .
18 can be obtained with a single measurement rectifier bridge connection.

Alas this device (and its replacement) didn't last long.. maybe failing due to a residual stored voltage on tested capacitors?

 GW Instek GDM8145

 

 

 I bought this attractive-looking bench multimeter many years ago, when they'd just been introduced, to aid fault-finding.

Alas, I only used it a few times because of a serious problem which I think wasn't a fault but just bad design. I'll go into this below, but maybe you can guess by looking at the adjacent sales picture?
 

 Having a free moment or two and noticing my multimeter sitting in the test equipment rack and having recently seen some U-Tube videos where a bench meter was being used I decided to renew my acquaintanceship with my GDM8145.

I pulled it out and found to my surprise that it uses a stand-by switch, not a mains on/off switch and for the past umpteen years its transformer had been powered up. I switched it on and the display was really awful. Not only was it mostly dim but one of the five 7-segment displays was glowing a solid red. I recall the dim display and this had been my chief reason for effectively binning the brand new tester, but now it seems to be offering an opportunity for fixing it...

Incidentally, in the smaller picture above you can see the problem where ambient light makes it tricky to read the display, but now not only is the display dim but there's a fault as well. These 7-segment displays use a timing arrangement to display a set of numbers. This is aided by a 7447 chip which selects and drives the segments in accordance with data supplied to it with the end result a dimming due to the multiplexing function. If for any reason the multiplexing fails one or more displays will be a lot brighter and this was the fault with which I was confronted.

I opened the case and removed the main circuit board together with the front panel carrying the display board. A quick check didn't reveal a problem as everything looked pristine.... except that I found a 10 ohm resistor on long legs running exceedingly hot. Voltage checks revealed the DC voltage circa 8 volts feeding the 5-volt regulator circuit was running at 250mA, and a quick look on the schematic revealed.. it shouldn't be there.. no resistor had been fitted in the original design.

Clearly the resistor had been fitted for a purpose. In fact once the current increases due to a fault the feed to the 5 volt regulator falls and will kill the logic circuits and more importantly limits the 7-segment display current. I unplugged the display board and the current fell to virtually nothing proving the fault was thankfully on the display board not on the exceedingly crowded motherboard.

I checked the components on the display board and noticed a set of PNP/NPN transistors connected to the display chips. I checked them with my diode-tester and soon found an anomaly. One of the 2SC1815 NPN transistors had a base emitter reading suggesting both NPN AND PNP characteristics. I removed it and fitted a new 2SC1815 and this fixed the fault, however... is there a way of increasing display brightness?

Each display is essentially a set of LEDs and these will get brighter the more current is passed through them. Between the 7447 chip and the displays is a set of 100 ohm resistors and I quickly discovered that reducing their value increased display brightness so I removed them and fitted a set of 10 ohm resistors.

I reassembled the meter and now the display is comfortably bright with unlit segments no longer making things awkward.

 

 

 A 15 ohm resistor plugged into the sockets.

The switchery is a bit confusing but after a bit of practice I'm sure I'll figure it out...

A couple of years later I switched on the meter to check a suspicious voltage, not believing my usual test meter and the display flickered a few times and went out. After a few button presses with random results the meter filally went dead and stayed that way. I dismantled it and checked a few things. Mains was present but the pcb was coated or at least it was difficult to get resistance readings. My first thought was a bad capacitor but surely not because it had been switched off and capacitor lifetime should be quite long.. but then again the on/off switch was in a low voltage lead and merely turned on a relay.. so at least part of the meter had most likely been on for donkeys years! I set it on one side for later.

The following week I started by checking the capacitors (in circuit) and found a couple had strange readings so attempted to just parallel up some new ones. All to no avail so I made some voltage measurements. Three seemed OK but no sign of 5 volts and without the schematic I was mystified. I eventually found the manual and printed off the circuit diagram (three pages). The power supply (shown further down) actually uses series pass transistors and I found a 2SD313 provided the 5 volt rail. This was governed by a 5.6 volt zener diode but where was it? It turned out to be adjacent to another power transistor and of course it was short-circuit.

I fitted a new 5.6 volt zener and the meter worked fine. In fact I'm pretty sure the thing had been dodgy from the day I bought it because readings were now rock steady instead of jumping around.

 

 With the circuit diagram (below) I was able to figure out why the ground voltage wasn't present on what I'd vaguely imagined was the centre pin of a 3-terminal regulator (in fact a 2SD313 transistor, Q103). Without decent light and magnifying goggles the lettering on the components is not easily readable.. grey on grey.. one of my pet hates. The transistor pins are base/collector/emitter hence the heatsink (=collector) is at 12 volts. The base was at ground potential because of the duff diode (D107).

 
 

 S101 is the on/off switch and as you can see it doesn't turn off the mains supply, leaving some circuit drain via losses and leakage.

 

 

I have a new-fangled device for measuring mains power (part of the "green" revolution) which tells me that the meter consumes 1.6 watts at 234 volts AC when "OFF" and 6.4 watts when "ON".

 

Below, the rear of the circuit board which is lightly treated in some sort of conformal coating making it tricky to take measurements!

 

 

 

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