McMichael 381
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A second old family set
arrived in June 2021 delivered by the owner of the Columbia
C301. This example has been clumsily painted and a rather
floppy garish speaker cloth fitted. It belonged to a late neighbour
of the current owner who'd like to hear it working. |
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Click
the picture above to see its data sheet from 1939.
The set is definitely not serviceman
friendly because it's in two main sections.. the receiver chassis
and the loudspeaker and push button tuning part and connected
together by two sets of cables which must be carefully unscrewed
to separate the sections before either can be extracted from
the cabinet. I'd noticed the tuning knob didn't really do much
and after removing the knobs and disconnecting the cable harnesses
I found lots of dried grease jamming up the ancient slow motion
drive. I also discovered the glass dial had dropped and was sitting
at a slight angle hard up against the tuning mechanism. The markings
on the glass were poor, particularly the station names. Either
someone cleaned the glass without due care or the lettering was
originally radioactive paint which has now faded. to attract
customers there are special indicators for the tone control and
waveband selection driven by levers coupled to the switch shafts
(those white panels either side of the main dial, above).
Although dating from 1939 the
valves it uses are generally older by a few years viz. RF Amp/Frequency
changer AC/TH1 (B7); IF Amplifier AC/VP2 (B7), Detector/AVC/Audio
amplifier HL41DD (MO), Audio output AC5/Pen (B7) and Rectifier
UU4 (B4).
Below.. a collection of pictures,
starting with a 1939 advertisement. |
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The dial has a cloudy
look about it and the backing and dial markings are faded. |
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This card dated 1990 was
lying on top of the receiver chassis.
It's in fact a greeting to a
friend in Turkish. |
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Not very visible, being inside
the case and partly covered by parts of the radio. Left.... presumably
it was up to the customer to request the shopkeeper to set stations
for the set of push buttons? |
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These pictures show the connections
which need detaching before the chassis can be removed. One set
(above) carried the six "mains energised" loudspeaker
connections and left the six cables for the push buttons. |
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A new rather unsightly
white cable has been fitted as a mains lead and for some reason
the safety earth is not used and quite definitely insulated.
On the left is an early electrolytic
condenser. Some of these early receivers have first class components
still in perfect condition but until I've carried out investigative
work who knows what I might find. The owner said it lit up and
nothing else... |
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I removed the glass dial
with a litte difficulty as it had glued itself in position with
the four rubber mounting pads which had decomposed. Oddly the
whole dial had slipped downwards where it was jammed against
the tuning mechanism. The backplate has a strange finish which
results in a cloudy looking dial. Was it originally matt black?
You can partly see the mechanism for the indicators for tone
setting and waveband, but the tone control switch idents feel
very sloppy (this turned out to be just a loose screw). |
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When you're working on
an old radio chassis it's essential to protect fragile parts
such as dials and valves so I always add supports, usually a
wooden frame but in this case it was more convenient to use some
scrap metal.
Often the manufacturer would
assume enough servicing could be done via a detachable panel
under the case, but major works need the cabinet to be removed.
Later I removed that mains lead
to gain access to the rear of the chassis where a couple of block
condensers are fitted. |
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I haven't decided on what
to do with the dial. The original glass lettering is so faded
to be virtually useless unless it's luminous (the scan below
is greatly enhanced with PhotoShop). The backplate is finished
in a matt brown and I could stick a paper print onto this to
aid tuning and looks. The problem is the pointers (three) are
behind the metal plate and show through slots. It's possible
that the dial lampps could project a shadow onto the paper, otherwise
I'd have to cut slots in the paper (removing the numbered scales).
There's also the other slots for the tone and wavechange indicators.
Another possibility is
to print an enhanced scan of the dial onto a transparent film,
but I think I've decided on the best solution which is to glue
the negative picture (now PhotoShopped below) to the backplate
with slots cut so you can see the three pointers and markers
for the tone and wavechange switch. |
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Many components are fitted
vertically at terminal strips below the valveholders and at the
rear of the chassis are a couple of waxed card blocks each containing
some condensers. The smaller carries a 50uF and an 0.1uF whilst
the larger one C32,100uF; C33, 16uF and C34, 8uF. The last being
te smoothing and reservoir condensers. A replacement for one
of the high values has been added. This measured 15uF and more
than 20 ohms ESR. C29 meaured with a leak of greater than 20
ohms and zero capacitance. There are a total of 17 old condensers
(excepting those used for RF circuits which are usually OK) that
will need removing, testing and almost certainly swapping. The
service data tells me I can buy replacement packs C29/C30 for
4/6d (=22.5p) and C32/C33/C34 for 10/6d (half a guinea no doubt!
= 52.5p) . |
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Below you can see test
results of the pair of block condensers.
The larger of the two had an
open circuit 8uF with highish readings for the 1uF and the other
8uF. The case was bulging and the 16uF had already been swapped
for the blue tubular condenser shown below.. also u/s. "ESR"
means the internal resistance was miles too high for the condenser
to work satisfactorily (and in the case of HT types they would
get very warm). |
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The first task will be
to swap bad condensers, starting with the blocks above. Numbering
as per the service data sheets.
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C4 |
C5 |
C7 |
C8 |
C12 |
C13 |
C20 |
C21 |
C22 |
C24 |
C25 |
C26 |
C29 |
C30 |
C32 |
C33 |
C34 |
. |
. |
Marked |
0.1uF |
0.1uF |
0.02uF |
0.002uF |
0.1uF |
0.1uF |
0.1uF |
0.1uF |
0.1uF |
0.001uF |
0.06uF |
0.005uF |
50uF |
0.01uF |
100uF |
16uF |
8uF |
. |
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Actual |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
- |
14nF |
ESR |
10nF |
open |
ESR |
ESR |
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I checked the most critical
condenser C30 but found it was a Hunts moulded component rather
than a waxed type. It was very difficult to get at (note the
10 minute fault-finding comment in the service sheets) but in
fact most parts are touch soldered in place so I removed it and
exchanged it for a modern 15nF capacitor. Much to my surprise
it measured only 12mV volts in my test circuit, using 100Kohm
and 300V, representing insignificant leakage. An adjacent wax
condenser, C26 marked 0.005uF was 14nF and had a leakage of about
5Mohm so I replaced that although it would have been serviceable.
At this point it was time to power the reiver and see if it worked...
maybe some work on the tuniung arrangement though because dried
grease in its works made it occasionally stop twiddling. |
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Here are some views of
the second part of the radio carrying the mains energised speaker
and preset coil circuitry.
The rear panel is held by four
black wooden posts, two of which have become unglued so I fixed
those and need to wait for the new glue to set. The speaker cloth
is not ideal and certainly needs stretching in place because
it's very loose. The choice of cloth echoes the choice of paint
and really both should be swapped. This could be done by the
owner as it would be a time-consuming task to remove the paint
and restore the original finish.
I connected the speaker/push
button assembly to the main chassis via its 12 leads. |
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The next step was to power
the receiver to ensure it hasn't got a serious problem and if
OK work out the jobs needing to be done to get it working.
As the dial glass isn't fitted
I printed a paper dial, cutting slots so I could see the pointers
and the waveband and tone indicators. Printing the dial was a
little awkward but, by measuring the size of the glass dial,
I was able to copy these measurements into the printer details.
I used a scapel to cut the slots. The final dial could be improved...
possibly using the negative version shown previously.
I connected a temporary mains
lead and switched on. The dial lamps came on but after waiting
whilst waggling the wavechange switch with the volume control
advanced I couldn't hear anything from the speaker. The easiest
way to proceed was to power the receiver from the mains transformer,
unplug the rectifier valve and connect a variable power supply
across the HT rail. Cranking the HT to 200 plus I heard some
life and carefully tuning using a long wire pulled in Radio 4
at low strength. Monitoring the AVC line showed zero volts and
in fact during further tests the AVC line didn't rise above 2mV.
I connected my HP signal generator to the aerial socket and found
a response at around 470KHz. Setting the HP to 465KHz AM, I tuned
the pair of IFTs and after going around a few times using a wattmeter
plugged into the external speaker sockets the receiver became
very sensitive. Radio 4 was now strong and after some temporary
alignment medium and long waves sounded pretty good. Shortwaves
however proved a problem. I could hear a 15MHz test signal at
the HF end of the band (=20m), but as I tuned the HP downwards
whilst tracking with tuning, the receiver stopped working suddenly
at around 11MHz. Either the frequency changer oscillator is packing
up due to a bad resistor or bad condenser or the AC/TH1 itself
has low emission. Fortunately I have a few spares so I can at
least quickly check the valve which seems to work down to around
70 volts HT. (but not so easy to sort out.. see later) |
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I noticed several problems..
the AVC line is dead, the tuning needs an overhaul, the tone
switch has too much attenuation in any setting other than the
"Fidelity" position. Switching to the presets, these
work but the alignment between oscillator and RF coils is hopeless,
also I suspect there's a fault between the aerial socket and
the RF amplifier grid as putting a finger on the top cap of the
frequency changer increases the audio quite dramatically. This
could be due to a tracking problem in the RF circuits or a fault.
I need to study the circuit diagram to see what's involved. |
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Some of this section of
the circuitry is carried on the loudspeaker unit.
This also carries L5, L6 (part
of the loudspeaker) and the loudspeaker which means the HT line
is carried on fairly long cables between the chassis and loudspeaker
assembly.
Note the link between the tone
control and the RF circuits. Is this designed to reduce any chance
of overloading the set from local broadcasts? In fact it's to
broaden the response to improve fidelity.
Connections "X" and
"Y" are used to supply the frequency changer with completely
alternative RF and oscillator coils.. perhaps a poor way to arrange
presets because of the extra expense involved?
A similar method was used on
the Murphy A72 also
made in 1939, but in that case the preset module was sold as
an extra. |
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Alignment is straightforward
except for the note on push button RF tracking. Shortwave
setting is midway between 20m and scale top. Mediumwave setting
has a mark on the dial but represents 214m. Longwave setting
is 1125m although with the shortage of broadcasts it may be better
to use say a weaker broadcast than Radio 4 such as Luxembourg?
Use test signals below AVC level. |
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As the AVC circuit uses 500Kohm
resistors it's important that the decoupling condensers are leak-free.
These are all 0.1uF; C4 and C5 (essentially in parallel) in the
RF assembly and C20 at the 1st IF transformer. During initial
testing the AVC voltage was only a few mV.
After some more testing the
AVC voltage worked properly. This was due to fitting three new
capacitors replacing C4 and C5 plus C8 (0.002uF) and adjusting
the trimmers. The push buttons worked but the audio was far less
than direct tuning. I traced the problem to a small preset T13
which had no effect. Replacing it with another plus a fixed 25pF
enabled the RF to be boosted to roughly the same level as direct
tuning. I found a few anomalies though.. One is that Radio 4
appeared twice within the LW tuning range. Assuming the LW coverage
is 150 to 300KHz the local oscillator tunes 615 to 765KHz with
663KHz tuning Radio 4 on 198KHz. I can't see how Radio 4 appears
twice unless there's a bad IF response.. for example if one transformer
coil has a peak at say 480KHz there would be a response at 185KHz
which is broadly what I'm seeing. The easiest way to discover
whether this is what's happening is to use my spectrum analyser
hooked up the the detector diode of the HL41DD. I can also check
on the shortwave lack of local oscillator. Below is the result
of IF alignment. |
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This scan was taken by
removing the HL41DD so there was no audio output or AVC action.
The set was tuned to the strongest 465KHz breakthrough which
of course is the long waveband. The tracking generator is running
from 415KHz to 515KHz and the response is a bit peculiar.
There are two clear peaks and
what you're seeing is the response of the IF at both 465KHz and
495KHz. Is this why I could hear a second Radio 4 higher up the
band?
In the following picture I set
the waveband to the short waveband making it easier to align
the IF amplfier. |
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The curve above must be
displaying a peak due to 465KHz plus the local oscillator mixing
with 960KHz to produce 960-465=495KHz. Why is the peak at 495KHz?
Because the receiver dial is tuned to that frequency and the
set of tuned circuits is proving the response shown. If I tuned
the set lower in frequency the peak would follow. The size of
the peak of course indicating the tracking accuracy of the RF
and local oscillator settings. |
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The shortwave setting
reduced the overall response by about 5dB but the gain of the
RF tuned circuits isn't messing up the response.
That little spike is puzzling..
maybe ringing?
The tone control is now set
to "Fidelity" which gives a broader response.
Each IF trimmer had a different
effect with the first shifting the centre of the curve from 465KHz
as one would expect. |
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While adjusting the RF
trimmers it was very noticeable that the bandpass circuits had
a dramatic effect on gain and I found that some trimmers needed
a parallel fixed capacitor in order to tune across a peak. In
the case of some a false peak was seen at the maximum trimmer
capacity. For correct settings a distinct peak (both rise and
fall) should be noticed before maximum or minimum trimmer setting.
In this receiver there is no provision for adjusting the coils,
with alignment solely concerned with peaking at the HF end of
each waveband. Even the preset coils use a fixed ganged method
of adjustment with twin cores moving through the RF and oscillator
coils. The single alignment trimmer T13 has to be set to a compromise
position. |
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After re-aligning with
the HL41DD plugged in with a short wire poked in socket pin corresponding
to the detector diode anode and with the tone control at "Normal"
switched to short waves the response looked clean with a bandwidth
of around 3KHz. |
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With the tone control set at
"Fidelity" after a tiny tweak at one of the trimmers
at the second IF transformer which lifted a drooping left edge
upwards a nice flat top resulted.
It appears to have a bandwidth
of about 18KHz. |
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Switching back to "Normal"
produced, with no more twiddling, this nice IF response.
If you look at the circuit diagram
above the difference in the two response curves is achieved by
having two extra coils on top of T4 primary winding selectable
by the tone control switch.
I've seen much more complex
arrangements that give results nothing like as good as this. |
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I then went back to aligning
the three wavebands. This was very difficult but was easier once
I'd grounded the AVC line at the RF unit which was quite easy
as the top of the assembly had the AVC line connections exposed.
This left the IF amplifier AVC connected. Because of drifting
with age in the coils, which are completely inaccessible, I needed
to wire small capacitors across the trimmers in order to average
out the receiver gain across the tuning ranges. Medium waves
were not too bad and, as very few broadcasts are heard at the
low frequency end of the band during the day, I optimised the
range from 200m to 500m. Long waves had only two usable broadcasts
and was impossible to optimise across the whole band so I trimmed
to receive Luxembourg leaving Radio 4 at the RF amplifier settings
for the former.
I know the main coils hidden
away in their enclosure are not ideal because the preset coils
perform better. The design of the set, especially the presence
of the bandpass circuitry and absence of coil adjusters makes
alignment difficult. Whether the coils can be adjusted or not
I don't know because its not possible to get inside the RF assembly
with the receiver working and too much work would be involved
in dismantling. I'm happy with receiver performance except for
shortwaves where reception only covers wavelengths corresponding
to the local oscillator range 11 to 18MHz. AVC action is very
good and of course fidelity is excellent with its class A audio
amplifier.
Read on to see more on the shortwave
problem. |
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These are all frequency
changers dating in design from the mid 1930s. Left to right AC/TH1,
FC4, MS4B, TH4 and a different shaped AC/TH1. As you can see,
three are new old stock (NOS).
Click
the valves to see the Mazda datasheet. |
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Tackling the shortwave
oscillation problem isn't easy. The chassis must be upended together
with the cumbersome speaker unit to access the frequency changer.
The main resistors viz. screen oscillator anode and cathode measured
about right. The oscillator circuit is a bit odd because the
amplitude of the output seems to be governed by a resistor in
series with the triode grid (in fact the valve datasheet explains
the reason for these resistors which is to limit amplitude to
avoid harmonics... whose presence would result in ghost signals
appearing on the dial). For long waves this is R4 plus R8, medium
waves R4 plus R9 and for shortwaves just R4. R4 is called a "regeneration
modifier" and is 100 ohms (or 150 ohms in brackets.. whatever
that means?) R8 and R9 are called "het.voltage control"
and are 5.5Kohm for long waves and 2.5Kohm for medium waves.
This suggests the oscillator amplitude is quite frequency sensitive
so is R4 possibly too high (or indeed too low) for maintaining
the output across the whole of the band? The fact that oscillation
is taking place at the high end and stopping lower than 11MHz
is puzzling. It means that loop gain is too low below 11MHz.
The grid condenser is 100pF (call it Rc which is essentially150
ohms at 11MHz and 90 ohms at 18MHz) R4 plus Rc at 11MHz is 250
ohms and at 18MHz 190 ohms. At the low end of the band, say 6MHz
Rc is 265 ohms making 365 ohms total. Maybe shorting R4 making
the total at 6MHz 265 ohms which equates to the 11MHz value is
the answer? The problem may be ageing of the parts in the shortwave
circuitry or something completely different?
Inspection of the valve datasheet
reveals McMichael have faithfully followed Mazda's recommended
circuitry which essentially tunes the anode circuit leaving feedback
to the grid circuit. Poor overall gain will affect the ease of
oscillation and that means the tuned circuit needs to have a
high impedance at resonance. In the past problems have been met
when, for example, a coil degrades and its Q or quality falls
to the extent that a sharp resonance isn't achieved. Numerous
techniques can be used to restore sufficient gain to restore
oscillator operation. I used a few of these viz. increasing the
operating voltages around the valve electrodes and increasing
the value of the feedback condenser. These together with a selected
valve restored operation. |
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The frequency changer
heptode is fed from the HT line, but the triode from a reduced
HT which it shares with the audio amplifier. As the HT rectifier
is probably a lttle aged and not up to scratch I tried shunting
the subsidiary HT line dropper resistor of 5K with a handy 91
ohm resistor. It was easy to monitor the local oscillator with
a nearby shortwave receiver and I found the increased HT improved
the cut off point from 11MHz to 10MHz. At this point I plugged
in a new AC/TH1. Next I reduced the regeneration resistor by
shunting it with 100 ohms. This improved things so cut off was
now 9MHz. I was now using my variable HT supply with the UU4
unplugged, that red lead clipped to the heater of the UU4 base
carries around 300 volts. The components for the AC/TH1 are mostly
mounted vertically under the tagboard above. I checked the two
decoupling condensers (screen and cathode.. both very good) and
values of the screen resistor and triode anode load (both within
spec of 40K) but I reduced the triode resistor to 27K and this
improved things a little more.. down to 7.2MHz before swapping
C19 from 100pF to 150pF.
I removed the new AC/TH1 and
fitted an ancient TH4B. Much to my surprise it worked better
than the new valve and the cut off point improved again to 7MHz.
I put back the original AC/TH1 and it worked.. shortwaves now
went down to the band end and broadcasts were loud and clear
from 49 to 19 meters. What's the answer? Well it seems that more
than one design of the AC/TH1 was produced.. it's reported as
a triode hexode or a triode heptode. The valve was said to be
a breakthrough for shortwave radio reception because it no longer
resulted in pulling (that's when a strong signal, producing a
high AVC voltage inadvertently moved the local oscillator frequency).
Some designs used pulling to produce a kind of AFC such that,
as one approached a strong signal its presence locked the local
oscillator.. automatically tuning the set for you. Pulling was
not a very nice thing to cope with generally and the AC/TH1 fixed
the problem.. but made shortwave tuning a more precise task than
previously. |
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Because of ageing of RF
components I had to add extra capacitance at the RF amplier and
bandpass cols with a beehive 3-30pF trimmer and a ceramic trimmer
to replace failed trimmers.
Left is long wave, centre medium
wave and right short waves trimmers plus the orange trimmer which
sets the long/medium wave preset coils. |
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Clearly.. all things being equal..
a new AC/TH1 fails to receive the bands from say 31 to 49 meters
in this McMichael, but the old one works fine after some fiddling
with component values. So what's the reason? As a matter of academic
interest I checked the interelectrode capacitances for the various
valves shown above. The original valve measures as follows (with
figures for the NOS valve in brackets).. triode anode to cathode
29pF (7pF); triode grid to cathode 10pF (12pF) and triode anode
to triode grid 10pF (9pF). The anode figure is a lot higher..
so, does this explain the problem? I also noticed something else
which looks a bit odd and doesn't figure in the receiver datasheet.
It's clear in the picture above but is easily missed in the schematic
because it's shown on a different page to the AC/TH1.. there's
an RF choke in the screen grid decoupling circuit. It looks like
it would be around 0.6uH with a little capacitance, so will have
an impedance ranging from less than an ohm at long waves up to
say 60 ohms at 18HMz so will have an effect within the troublesome
frequency range. Why did McMichael fit it.. perhaps to keep the
oscillator amplitude more or less constant across short waves?
Also if you look at the resistors within the oscillator tuned
circuit.. the "regeneration modifier" has twin resistance
values, so was there a production problem with the design?
One problem you get with shortwave
receivers is image reception (a failing associated with superhet
receivers) and another, reception of ghost broadcasts tuned from
harmonics of the local oscillator. A combination of these effects
can produce hundreds of signals. McMichael's design is better
than some because it uses a set of bandpass coils forcing the
receiver to tune to real broadcasts whilst minimising false responses.
A drawback of the technique is aging of components which causes
receiver deafness.
I did check all the valves on
my AVO tester and all showed up as serviceable, so maybe the
valve inter-electode capacitances may have a bearing on things..
especially because the McMichael mechanical design requires really
long leads between coils, frequency changer valve base and the
tuning condenser. Does this mean there's some kind of choking
effect that's interfering with the local oscillator? |
Now that the oscillator
is more or less reliable I was able to remove the HT dropper
resistor and found I could reduce the HT to around 75 volts before
it cut out on short waves. I also tried bridging the RF choke
and that seemed to have no effect. Using my spectrum anayser
hooked onto the oscillator section of the tuning condenser (with a high impedance probe)
I could see it running from 6.25 (-63dBm) to 15MHz (-51dBm).
Note the amplitude figures are for comparison only. The medium
wave oscillator tuned from 1030-1905KHz at roughly -66dBm. See
the table below for what these mean. |
Measured Oscillator |
RF True Frequency |
RF True Wavelength |
RF Image Frequency |
RF Image Wavelength |
Dial |
Correct Oscillator |
6.25MHz |
5.785MHz |
51.9m |
6.715MHz |
44.7m |
51m |
5.88MHz |
15MHz |
14.435MHz |
20.8m |
15.465MHz |
19.4m |
18m |
15.93MHz ** |
1.030MHz |
565KHz |
531m |
1495KHz |
200m |
560m |
1.001MHz |
1.905MHz |
1440KHz |
208m |
2370KHz |
127m |
199m |
1.973MHz ** |
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In order for the dial
to read correctly the local oscillators need to be slightly adjusted.
The only way to do this (as coils are not accessible) is to tweak
trimmers to line up the HF end of the medium and shortwave bands
with the dial. These are the two frequencies marked **. In reality
this means setting the dial to 20m on SW and a suitable broadcast
between 200 and 250m on MW. You'll notice images are not a problem
on medium waves but are exceedingly tricky on shortwaves, especially
with powerful AVC.
As far as I can judge from circuit
analysis the LO is higher than tuned signals on shortwaves. The
main factor in this is the 3500pF padder condenser C16 which
determines the effect of the tuning condenser. Usually any variation
in the padder condenser can be more or less counteracted by tweaking
the oscillaor coil inductance but in this set that isn't a practical
proposition. The drawback might be loss of dial accuracy and
receive sensitivity at the low frequency end of the dial. |
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Above with the darker
dial in place and the speaker (upside down to protect the coils
from damage) and below assembled in their cabinet after strething
the speaker cloth. |
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The only difficulty in
reassembly was the small tuning knob which had a broken securing
screw which I needed to drill out then tap the hole for 6BA and
fit with a special screw.
The missing knob has been replaced.
The reflections from the glass makes the dial look lighter than
it is.
I replaced the original mains
lead but added a grommet where it passes through the chassis
and grounded the safety earth wire, then fitted a modern 13A
mains plug with a suitable fuse. |
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The final steps are to
check everything works, set the preset station buttons and replace
the pair of rear covers. |
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pending |
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